Giving advice

“What’s your future goal?”

“Well, I want to become a lawyer (doctor, teacher, stewardess, engineer, captain, electrician, fashion designer, military man, farmer).”

“Do you know how to do that?”

“Teacher, I don’t know!”

“Here’s what you can do…”

Do you remember your junior year in high school, trying to figure out what you wanted to do with the rest of your life despite the fact you really had no idea what was going on?  Those were the days, huh?  Since the juniors at MHS have no actual college or career advisers, I decided that I would do my best to inform them of their different options for the future.  Most of my students will be among the few in their families to attend the College of Micronesia and obtain an associate’s degree, let alone even think of pursuing a bachelor’s degree!  I wanted to encourage them that their dreams are very much possible, as long as they work hard to achieve them and never give up.

The University of Hawaii at Manoa’s library.  Many of my students want to attend UH to earn their bachelor’s degree.

I was able to do academic advising as a way of wrapping up the first half of second semester.  After the craziness of preparing for Championship Week, it was nice to get back to the rhythm of the regular academic day.  In my algebra classes, we completed the chapter by learning how to graph inequalities on a number line thanks to some fun hand motions and a Beyonce song (whatever works, right?).  My world cultures classes completed their study of Japan, which included a special Valentine’s Day / White Day presentation, karate lessons from ジャネル-先生, and even a Japanese language class thanks to my PCV friend.  ありがとう!  No updates as of yet on those academic programs my students applied for, but no news is good news, yes?

My host sister up to bat during a Championship Week game.  The MHS girl’s softball team was victorious.  Too bad I can’t say the same about the other teams (oh well!).

Outside of school, I have been playing lots with K-Ben (who can now accurately say my title), celebrating 18 months in Pohnpei with my fellow volunteers (can’t believe it!), pondering the cause of my swollen lymph node (which literally came out of nowhere), and planning for my summer trip to KOREA!  Yes, I’m going back, mostly to gorge on Korean food.  No joke.

반찬, wait for me!

In this extremely belated edition of Nahnsou’s cultural corner, I would like to present to you about an annual event that is very near and dear to the hearts of all Pohnpeians.  Growing up in the United States, I never even realized this day existed until I started taking Italian class in high school.  Every year on a special day in March, my signora would insist that the boys bring the girls flowers.  My impression was that this was a European holiday I could definitely get used to.  It was not until I came to Pohnpei that I realized the extent to which International Women’s Day could be celebrated.

Rahn en Lien Sampah (Day of the Women of the World) is a HUGE event, large enough that public schools and government buildings have the day off to honor the occasion.  Over 25 woman’s groups from all over Pohnpei, including Lien Madolenihmw, Lien Education, and Lien Mwoakilloa, practice choreographed dances that they will perform weeks beforehand.  All of the participants also buy matching uniforms in their chosen colors, better to represent themselves.  One of my own host sisters, all of 12 years old, was one of 60 females to dance as part of the woman’s group of Madolenihmw.

On March 8, the day of, everybody (pretty much) goes to the College of Micronesia’s FSM-China Friendship Gym, probably the largest structure on the island that is capable of hosting this event.  The stands are packed as people squeeze in to find seats where they can watch the festivities.  The MC announces each group separately, and the women enter the stadium to much applause.  With everybody crammed into the space, speeches are made by prominent figures in the F.S.M. government, such as the lieutenant governor and a very powerful female senator.  After those conclude, it is time for the dancing.  Each woman’s group gets a block of time to perform their three choreographed dances – one entrance dance, one main dance, and one exit dance.  Some of the dances are very traditional and are performed to Pohnpeian songs, while others include more modern moves and are performed to English hip-hop remixed songs.

I only stayed to watch my host sister dance, and then I escaped to find some food and lament the dying battery of my camera.  Overall, International’s Women’s Day was quite fun and the participants felt confidant about themselves and their identity as women of the world afterwards.

Check out all of the women!

Remember, if you are an invitee and want to contact me or any of the other PCVs about anything, please feel free to do so!  We would all be more than happy to answer any questions or concerns you might have.  If you are a personal buddy of mine and want to update me about your life, I would love that too.  Tupene mwur (Let’s meet later)!

Writing poetry

It’s raining again

My umbrella is broken

Where’s the taro leaf?

Here’s the ramen bowl

So spicy and delicious

My mouth is burning

Clear ocean waters

Surrounding my little boat

There goes my breakfast

Breadfruit on the tree

Why won’t you come down right now

I want to eat you!

These haiku pretty much describe my life here on Pohnpei.  Since my world cultures classes are focusing on Japan this quarter, I thought it would be appropriate for my students to write haiku of their own.  And I was more than happy to give them some fun examples.

What I’ve been up to this past month:

The seniors successfully wrapped up COMET practice by totally acing the test (or so we hope).  Results should arrive sometime next month.  During the time I was away at practice, my world cultures classes completed a big research project on a country of their choice using the library’s encyclopedias.  Talk about old school!  And luckily enough, my Algebra II class has been quite fun.  Since I remember my high school math classes being slightly painful at times, I try to make each period engaging by having the students do a lot of board work and explaining the solutions they come up with to their fellow classmates.

The library is actively being used by all MHS students.  I absolutely love it, except that more often then not they forget to return their books.  I need to start hunting students down!  Being in the library everyday gives me the time I need to be productive in labeling books and creating lesson plans for my classes.



The MHS library

My very proactive juniors have been busy applying to various summer programs such as STEP-UP (Short Term Educational Program for Underrepresented Persons), which gives stipends for students to conduct medical research under the guidance of professionals, and JSA (Junior State of America), which allows students to take an advanced history or government class in the United States or China.  I have been helping my juniors with their application materials and was asked (by all of them) to write their recommendation letters.  Here’s to hoping for the best!


Section A Juniors, the future leaders of Pohnpei

The Madolenihmw and U Teachers’ Forum was held at my school this year, with educators coming to MHS to listen to guest speakers and attend panel presentations.  Two fellow volunteers assisted me in giving a Peace Corps presentation to interested teachers.  Other MHS staff also gave their own presentations, ranging from Eco-Tourism to creatively using recyclable materials in Home Arts.



Li en Wai, Li en Madolenihmw

Remember Championship Week from last year?  Well, sports practices are wrapping up since the event is happening next week.  I coached the girls’ volleyball team for exactly one hour, and then left them in the capable hands of their much more qualified coach.  I did coach the Championship Week essay writers, however, which was much more my expertise.

Let’s go MHS!

M77 has been serving as volunteers for a year and three months.  To commemorate, as well as to combat the “second year slump,” the Pohnpei PCVs took a great day trip to Ant, an outlying atoll.  In the legend of Isokelekel, conqueror and first Nahnmwarki of Pohnpei, Ant was where he and his 333 men first landed before sailing on to Madolenihmw.



I wouldn’t mind serving here…

So I’ve been busy but happy with my work.  I’ll leave you with these song lyrics that just about sum up my attitude here on Pohnpei.  Until we meet again!

People are born with / people are born without / some people have / and others want / what some go without / some people live free / some people just want more / as for me I / got all that I need / don’t got much but I / got what I need     “Could You Bite the Hand?”  ~Steve Conte

Somewhere

Ticket Lady #1: Where is she going?

Ticket Lady #2: First Newark, then Honolulu, then…somewhere…

It’s humbling to know that you can spend two amazing years working and living in a country that the average American doesn’t even know exists.  Does this make me sad?  Well, yes.  Does this make me more determined than ever to bring back and share my experiences with anyone willing to listen?  Of course!  That’s the elusive “third goal” of the Peace Corps, which also happens to include this very blog.

Before I left Pohnpei to visit the States on break, I received something that I have been wanting for quite a long time – a traditional title in my community!  About two months after my host parents asked the Soumas (remember him?) about this, I was granted one – Nahnsou Deleur.  Nahnsou is the title, Deleur is my village.  I grin uncontrollably whenever someone addresses me as such because it signifies that now, after being in my community for a little over a year, I am no longer mehn wai.  I am mehn Pohnpei.  And that is awesome.

K-Ben can dance and say my title!

Travel time from Kolonia to Chicago – 40 hours.  Luckily not all of that time was spent on airplanes.  This trip is not for the faint-hearted!  When I finally arrived at the correct place I was just so glad to see my family and my house.  After being extremely cold for a few days I was pretty much able to adjust (except for the food – explosions of flavor!).  I hung out with long lost family members and reliable college buddies, played mahjong and took advantage of Netflix, explored Chicago and remembered why I value diversity so much.  I was able to do everything I needed – spend quality time with my family and friends (Wii!), take full advantage of the internet, go shopping for my host family and me (books!), and eat lots and lots of FOOD.  I also experienced the very first snow fall of 2012 – it’s going to be a while until I see snow again!

Enjoying snow with the Santos ladies

Travel time from Chicago to Kolonia – 38 hours.  I ordered Starbucks and fast food from all the airports I went to – because I could.  I was also pleasantly surprised to sit next to two fellow PCVs on their way back to Chuuk.  When my time traveling was done and I stepped off the plane, I remembered just how HOT Pohnpei was.  My host family was there to greet me at the airport and return me back to my second home.  I apparently got fatter and whiter – that about sums up my break.

I blame you, delicious Christmas lechon!

“We were desperate and you weren’t here” are not what one wants to hear upon return to one’s place of work.  Hear them I did.  This semester I am teaching two junior World Cultures classes (which have been great so far) and one junior Algebra II class.  AHH!  I am also running the library since it is officially open for student use.  Right now I am helping the Language Arts department out, preparing the seniors for the College of Micronesia Entrance Test (COMET).  Intensive vocabulary practice, reading comprehension, and essay writing for them – intensive grading for me!

Future Peace Corps Micronesia Volunteers: if you are reading this blog (along with the other ones conveniently listed to the right of your computer screen) in preparation for your departure in June, do know that all of us here are SUPER EXCITED for you to come!  If you have any questions, comments, or just want to say kaselehlie, please feel free to email me.

Freaking Out

When I see little black bugs crawling all over the water seal toilet, I freak out.

I often amuse my host family by freaking out over the various insects that like to invade my space (or my chocolate).  You would think that after being here for over a year I would be used to them by now.  Not quite.  But I am well equipped with a can of Raid to go after the little buggers.

Behold the toilet

When I see my fellow PCVs all together in the same place, I freak out.

M77’s Mid Service Training was held at the eco-friendly Village Hotel.  I slept on a water bed under a mosquito net, housed in a thatched-roof bungalow.  Volunteers from all over the Caroline Islands came back to rainy Pohnpei to reflect on the first year of service and prepare for the next.  Our training encompassed a variety of subjects, including sexual assault and intervention, communication, and content-based teaching.  More important than the training though, was the time in which we all bonded over our crazy experiences navigating through Micronesian and Palauan culture.  I am honored to serve with this incredible group of people.

Coming in after the midnight flight

When I watch my students flawlessly perform their skits, I freak out.

This quarter has kept me and my students very busy.  My freshmen practiced subject-verb agreement, learned vocabulary words, read Micronesian legends, wrote about personal memories in their journals, and created and executed skits based on both topics I gave them and topics of their own choosing.  I was stunned at how well my students did in acting out their completely English, completely memorized skits.  My goal was to give these students confidence in their ability to communicate in English, and I think together we accomplished this.

My juniors embarked on reading adventures with Island of the Blue Dolphins, Call It Courage, and The Pearl.  Thanks so much again to my family and friends who sent me copies – they were much appreciated and fully used.  They also learned vocabulary words, wrote essays about different prompts, journaled about future dreams, and faced off in engaging debates.

Some of my freshmen girls

When I think about going back to the states in less than a week, I freak out.

Not in a bad way, mind you.  My time in Pohnpei, especially at my site, has been absolutely wonderful (if you can’t tell from my previous entries, hehe).  I can only hope that I’ve given a little something in return for all that’s been given to me.  However, I know that without the support of everyone back home I would not have been successful here.  I can’t wait to see you all (especially my newest family member) but don’t freak out if I start acting a bit strange!

Season’s Greetings from Pohnpei

Feasting

Let me walk you through a typical Pohnpeian feast, or kamadipw.

Here’s the setup: Feast season in Pohnpei coincides with the harvest of yams, normally starting in September and running through November.  Feasts are entire village celebrations of the traditional leaders and of the harvest.  Food, dancing, and sakau abound.  There are two major feasts Pohnpeian villages can have.  The most important one is the kamadipw en wahu, the feast for the Nahnmwarki (king) of the municipality, of which Pohnpei has six.  I happen to live in the most populated municipality, Madolenihmw, where its Nahnmwarki is considered the highest ranking in all of Pohnpei.  So, if you can imagine, feasts get pretty intense.  The second most important is the kamadipw en kousapw, the feast a Pohnpeian village has to celebrate its Soumas (village chief).  My village, Deleur, recently held its kamadipw en kousapw.  It’s a small village, populated by 50 or so people.  However, that does not mean its feast had to be small.

Since my pahpa and nohno have high traditional titles, they are always expected to provide a lot for their village feasts.  Actually, everybody who attends a feast is expected to bring something to share because they will get something in return (except crazy mehn wai who normally have no idea what is going on).  This is no problem because Pohnpei has such a communalistic, collectivistic culture.  Everyone is ALWAYS willing to share what they have for the benefit of all.  Moving on…a day before the feast my host family and I went to town to buy food for making numerous trays (including rice, chicken, hotdogs, juice, snacks) and gifts to pass out (like shirts, mwaramwars, fabrics).

The day of the feast, my nohno and host sister got up at 3AM (!) to cook all of the food and prepare the trays to bring

My pahpa also went out to buy a pig that would be one of many to be butchered, roasted, and passed out to the feast-goers

Since this feast was in walking distance of my house, I was driven there half way and walked the other half (don’t judge).  You can tell how long a feast has been going on by the amount of people, pigs, yams, and sakau pounding you can see and hear.

The main part of a feast is held in the nahs.  Yes, that is a dead dog.

Here’s where the pigs are cooked.

 No feast is complete without music…

…or sakau.

Look at all those yams!

Just a small sampling of trays that would be given away at lunch time.

 As token mehn wai and host daughter of high titled parents, I am normally made to sit in the nahs with other women.  It’s a place of honor, but also a place where I won’t get in the way of anything.  From my vantage point I could see pretty much everything of importance.

The traditional leaders being honored sit in the front of the nahs.

The pounding and drinking of sakau goes on for the entire length of the feast.

Once the dancing starts it doesn’t stop!

 First gifts are brought up to the front then passed back out.

The MC (the guy standing up without his shirt on) dictates the pace of the events.

Food preparations are done entirely by women.

The village Soumas giving a speech thanking everyone for coming.

Next comes the passing of the food.  The MC first calls out the titles of those highest ranking who get the biggest and best trays.  Then all of the food is gradually passed out to everyone else.

Female food line!

My nohno is the one in the black and red shirt putting trays in the nahs.

 After we all eat, we watch the entertainment in the form of organized dances and speeches given by prominent community members.

My little host sister (purple) and student (red) had dance practices for a week.

The Principal of a local elementary school reminding everyone that they need to take responsibility for Pohnpei’s future and not rely solely on U.S. funds.

Last is the giving and taking of sakau, yams, gifts, and pig parts

Sakau plants being brought up

My host sister (purple) participated in passing some of the gifts out.

The Soumas really got into the swing of things!

Yes, those pigs are indeed flayed open.

Bonus visit by the Governor of Pohnpei!

My pahpa (purple) helped decide the people in which to pass out the pig parts to

Feasts are fun but rather tiring events.  I even danced a bit at this feast (sorry, no evidence).  If you, dear reader, ever come to Pohnpei make sure you attend at least one of these kamadipws!  You will surely be expected to dance but you will definitely have a good time.

The day after.

At home

Sometimes, it's best not to ask.

Dancin’ the days away

“Go dance.”

“I can’t dance!”

“Go dance.”

And thus began my week long dance practice.

Most of the Pohnpeian women that I have met while being here really know how to shake up.  At any kamadipw, special occasion, or just for fun, it is almost a given that if there is music, then there will be dancing.  In honor of Education Day, a day when all the educators on the island gather together to celebrate their successes and reconfirm their commitment to teaching, each municipality had to prepare a song and/or dance to perform for their fellow teachers.  So it was decided by my Principal that all of the teachers at Madolenihmw High School would participate, whether or not they could sing or dance.  Everyone would sing, but for some reason only the ladies would dance.

I love singing – give me lyrics and a melody and I’ll totally sing.  Roughly translated into English, the song MHS chose to sing was about showing the light to people who have lost their way (very appropriate for teachers).  However, I don’t dance.  This is a fact of life.  Over the years I have avoided dances and dancing in general.  Of course, with the “why not?” attitude I have adopted here, I conceded to join in on the dancing.  Surprisingly, I’m actually glad I did since practices were a lot of fun and the dances weren’t too hard once broken down.  The best part, though, was watching the other ladies dance.  They sure know their stuff!  Conversely, it was pretty hilarious observing those teachers who didn’t know the moves attempt to dance since I was in the same boat as them and probably just as ridiculous.  Our performance on Education Day was full of energy and spirit though lacking a bit in accuracy of dance movements.  But sohte pwunod (no worries) since everybody had a good time.

Ironically, this all took place in the midst of mid-terms, so when I should have been grading I was dancing instead.  Curses!  My classes have been both challenging and rewarding for me over the course of this past quarter.  The large class sizes and variety of learning styles and levels in the same class constantly make me work hard to adapt my lessons so everyone can learn.  They haven’t always been successful but teaching is a work in progress, I believe.  However, I have seen my students grow a little more comfortable and confident in using English every day, which is one of the primary reasons as to why I’m here in the first place.  I also love that many students are excited to have an accessible library and borrow books, which makes me really hope that I can spend more time in the library next semester and find a librarian who will carry this all on.

Though I spend most of my free time planning and grading, I have been able to join in on family sakau time, play with the baby, research options for the future (I’m thinking grad school somewhere), and party with my fellow mehn wai.  As always, please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or just want to catch up.  Kaselel until next time!